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Viewing the Taj Mahal at sunrise is one of the most magical experiences on any tour of India, yet few travel a few miles further on to explore one of the most intriguing legacies of the Mughal dynasty – a city that was built as the empire’s most splendid capital, but then spectacularly abandoned.This extraordinary ghost city is Fatehpur Sikri, built in the 16th century. It is notable for being the first Mughal city built from scratch – designed on a mathematical grid across a series of terraces, complete with efficient drainage and water supply. Within the four-mile-long fortified wall were all the necessary components of any great metropolis: palaces, administrative buildings, housing, military structures, mausoleums and mosques, all uniformly designed in red sandstone and often elaborately carved.It is the fusion of Hindu and Islamic detailing that makes Mughal architecture particularly distinctive, coupled with an ambitious building scheme conducted over 300 years that has left examples scattered across the region. The first member of the dynasty was Babur (1526–1530) from modern-day Uzbekistan, a Muslim descendant of both Genghis Khan and Tamerlane who wrested control of first Delhi, then Rajputana. His great-grandson Shah Jahan (1627–1658) is probably best known in the West on account of the Taj Mahal, the lavish marble homage to his wife.However, arguably the greatest Mughal emperor was Akbar, Babur’s grandson, who reigned from 1556–1605. A charismatic leader, he consolidated and secured the empire through both military and political strategies, not only expanding the lands under his control, but also maintaining a religious tolerance. He is even reputed to have commissioned illustrated Persian versions of Sanskrit classics for members of his court.Initially, Akbar was based in Agra, a city that had become the capital of the empire because of its strategic location both on a major river and trade route. However, despite being only 26 years old, Akbar was worried because he had no male heir. This situation compelled him to visit the Sufi mystic Shaikh Salim Chisti for help, allegedly even travelling barefoot to the small cave within a rocky ridge where he lived, 23 miles south-west of Agra.A few years later in 1569, Akbar’s first son was born. In thanks to Shaikh Chisti, Akbar decided to build a new capital in the same location, which became known as Fatehpur Sikri: ‘City of Victory’. Charming as this story is, there was no doubt a stragic reason as well – Akbar was hoping to expand his empire into neighbouring Gujurat, which had some desirable coastal cities that would open up lucrative trading possibilities.Work started on the city in 1571 and the first building completed was the Grand Mosque (Jama Masjid), which later became the final resting place of Shaikh Chisti; his sculpted marble tomb was completed around 1581. It is among the structures in the city that have remained almost eerily well preserved. The 54-metre-high Lofty Gate (Buland Darwaza) is another literally unmissable sight. Begun in 1575 to celebrate the victory of Gujarat three years earlier, it is considered by UNESCO as one of the most perfect architectural achievements in India and is still one of the world’s largest gateways.There are also fascinating glimpses of Akbar’s life: his royal chamber, the Diwan-i-Khas, decorated with precious stones; the five-storey Panch Mahal, home for royal ladies and his mistresses that affords views of the plains beyond; and a tower spiked with stone tusks (shown right), said to commemorate his favourite elephant. There was also an emphasis on A BRIEF VICTORYLYING A FEW MILES FROM THE TAJ MAHAL IS A GHOST CITY NEARLY 500 YEARS OLD, THE SURPRISINGLY SHORT-LIVED CAPITAL OF A GREAT MUGHAL EMPEROR62TRAVEL ADVERTORIALThe Arts Society ReviewSummer 2017